Saturday, August 29, 2009

Victoria History, Culture & Dining

Victoria and Victoria County have the most interesting histories of any areas I have visited. Victoria County is the only county in Texas where all Six Flags of Texas flew and Victoria is the only city in the state established by a native of Mexico. Though it was primarily a Mexican settlement during the Texas war for independence, Victoria contributed volunteers, supplies, and arms to the Texas cause against Mexican dictator Antonio López de Santa Anna.

Incidentally, Victoria was not named after Queen Victoria of Great Britain but for General Guadalupe Victoria, who became the first president of independent Mexico. Victoria was founded in 1824 when Don Martin De Leon received a Mexican land grant to establish a settlement of 41 families between
the lower Guadalupe River and the Lavaca River. He called the settlement Nuestra De Guadalupe De Victoria. Following the Texas Independence, the name was shortened to Victoria. De Leon planned the city like most European and Mexican cities by building around the market square.

Old homes, some dating back to the pre-Civil War era, line the streets in the city's historic sections. In downtown Victoria, stately turn-of-the-century commercial buildings have been rebuilt and now house professional offices. Some now have lofts and apartment spaces on the second and third floors.

One Chamber of Commerce brochure states that "Today, through ranching, oil, several chemical plants, 3 advanced hospitals and other commerce, a warm year round climate, fertile soil and an abundance of natural resources and water, Victoria continues to grow at a remarkable rate… There is a tremendous increase in property evaluation and bank deposits, the largest deposits for a city of its size in the world." They also have a great location, two hours from three of the fastest-growing metropolitan areas in the US – Houston, San Antonio and Austin; hence the town's nickname, the "crossroads of South Texas." Also they have a barge canal that links Victoria to the intercoastal waterway and the Gulf of Mexico.

I only allotted three days to tour Victoria – not nearly enough. More information is available at History of Victoria from the Handbook of Texas Online.


Courthouse

The Romanesque Revival courthouse, built in 1892, was erected during something of an architectural renaissance for Texas. State legislation allowing counties to pay for the construction of courthouses with bonds and an abundance of stonemasons who traveled to the area for work after the state capital burned combined to create a period of prolific building artistry throughout the state between 1885 and 1915.

De Leon Plaza

The Square was originally called "Plaza De La Constitucion" by Martin De Leon, the founder of Victoria. As a gathering place, summer concert arena, exposition site, and town center, De Leon Plaza continues to serve the people of Victoria as it has for generations.

The bandstand (circa 1875 rebuilt 1895) in the plaza was placed atop the foundation from the city's old standpipe water reservoir.

"Firing Line"

Noted sculptor Pompeo Coppini made an agreement with the local chapter of the United Daughters of the Confederacy. If they would let him design the statue - it would be a more fitting tribute to the men who fought than any other Confederate statue in the state. They agreed and Coppini completed this piece - the only one of its kind – in 1912.

Wells Fargo Bank Building

First Victoria Bank Building

The only high-rise buildings downtown are banks

O'Connor-Proctor Building

The historic O'Connor-Proctor Building currently serves as headquarters for The Junior League of Victoria, Texas, Inc. This Romanesque Revival structure was built in 1895 at a cost of $7,721. It originally housed the office of rancher T. M. O'Connor, the legal firm of brothers Venable B. and Fred C. Proctor, and the dental office of Dr. William L. Ward. Since then the building has served as a church, law offices, a bank, a hardware store, a paint store, clothing, jewelry store, and photography studio. It also served as an emergency hospital during the influenza epidemic in 1918, and as officer's quarters during WWII.

The Street of Ten Friends

The former name for Victoria's Main Street was La Calle De Los Diez Amigos (The Street of the Ten Friends). It derives from the close association and leadership of the prominent members of the colony of Victoria. These ten friends had homes on the main street and directed the defense, commerce, and general development of early Victoria.


Leo J. Welder Center for the Performing Arts

The Leo J. Welder Center for the Performing Arts illuminates North Main Street with its neon lights. The Art Deco style building serves as the arts anchor for the city, hosting theater, ballet and musical performances.

Nave Museum

Royston Nave was an accomplished artist who enjoyed a prolific and successful painting career both in Texas and New York. His primary interests were the people and landscapes of Texas. The Nave Museum is a neo-classical style temple built by Mrs. Royston Nave in 1932 to serve as a memorial to her late husband, who died suddenly in 1931. The Nave Museum is a fine arts museum, hosting traveling exhibits both modern, as well as classical. Many of the exhibits shown are from artists around the country, and most specifically from Texas. Well known artists Andy Warhol, Mary Cassat, Joan Mitchell and Frieda Kahlo have been shown at the Nave.

Museum of the Coastal Bend

The Museum of the Coastal Bend at Victoria College is a new museum established in 2003. It is one of a coalition of eight institutions and seven museums containing a La Salle Odyssey exhibit. The La Salle Odyssey tells the story of Robert La Salle's French expedition and failed colonization of Texas in 1684. The La Salle expedition is so large a chronicle that each museum will only tell a portion of the larger story. The Museum of the Coastal Bend feature artifacts from Fort St. Louis (La Salle's ill fated settlement) and the La Belle shipwreck (La Salle's flagship). The museum also includes exhibits depicting the immigrants that entered Texas through the port of Indianola and their impact on the Victoria area.

Dining

Fossati's Delicatessen is the oldest deli in Texas and one of the oldest restaurants in the US. Fossati's was opened in 1882 by Italian immigrant Fraschio ("Frank") Napoleon Fossati. Fossati's was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 1991. Over the years, many famous musicians have played at the deli, including country music legend Willie Nelson. The day I had lunch at Fossati's there was a live piano player. In the back room of the deli, known as the Frank Napoleon room, there is a giant bookcase filled with hundreds of cookbooks, many of which have been out of print for 50+ years. Also inside, there is a trench-like area just above the floor surrounding the bar. This is where men used to spit tobacco. Outside of the building there are still metal rings where men used to tie up their horses and come in for a drink. After 125 years, Fossati's is still owned and operated by the same family. Click on the Fossati's Delicatessen for more information and pictures. BTW: They are only open for lunch Mondays through Fridays from 11:00 AM to 2:30 PM. The day I had lunch there it was packed. I had their lunch special "King Ranch Chicken". It should have been named TEX-Mex Chicken. It was kinda like a cream gravy and chicken tortilla soup casserole. Delicious.

Rosebud Fountain & Grill Like Fossati's this is a small café in downtown Victoria that is packed for lunch. Their menu is basic sandwiches, soup and salads. I always measure places like this by their chicken salad sandwiches: they passed my test.

Texas Seafood Restaurant is a small restaurant just outside Victoria. Their Jumbo Grilled Shrimp is the best I have had in Texas.

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